Ferric Chloride
It's not obvious how you get the images onto the board in the first place. I know Maplin sells a pin for such things but it's not going to look very good (or even work) with my wobbly hands.
( AWPS, Fri 18 Nov 2011, 13:49, 1 reply)

I print the image to old magazine paper (it comes off easier in water), then wrap it around a sheet of A4 and feed it through my laser printer. I then iron them on to the board with a normal clothes iron. It's just about the only time I've ever used one.
I'm experimenting with an old laminator. If I get get that working I have a more automated process - and one that isn't quite as hit or miss. I miss about 20% of the time, which means scrubbing the toner off the copper and starting again. If I can eliminate this bit, then all the better.
For the etching, I'm using Ammonium Persulphate - 1. because it's a clear liquid so you can see the etching working, and 2. Because it doesn't stain everything it comes into contact with like ferric chloride.
(dchurch bah, Fri 18 Nov 2011, 14:03, closed)

Makes a lovely cocktail with some baileys and blue curacao too.
disclaimer: this might not necessarily be a lovely cocktail
( Dr. Shambolic je suis charlie, Fri 18 Nov 2011, 16:05, closed)

"Etch-resist" pens could be your answer.
It's what we used in my apprenticeship. You can get them in Maplins and cheaper just about anywhere else.
The main problem I had was breaking the tiny 1mm drills, but at least I didn't have to pay for them.
( P-MONKE We're all fucked, Sat 19 Nov 2011, 20:32, closed)

To be honest
I made a few more last night with HELLO 90 gram ART paper. It's a bit more of a bastard to come off once ironed on but the results are so much better. No broken lines and it works perfectly. I think the key is the paper. I nicked a etching pen from work in case I had broken lines. So far, I haven't had to use it.
(dchurch bah, Sat 19 Nov 2011, 20:42, closed)