Quite easy
You need to be in a tour group (although there are individuals who go, but that costs a ton).
You also need to not be a journalist. If they find out you are one, they deny your visa application.
I went with Young Pioneer Tours, whom I shall plug on this page because they're excellent.
Your tour company usually sends one person with your group. You then get 2 local guides, and we also had a man "from the government tourism bureau" who was there to "check that everything was OK".
He appeared to be more interested in booze, fags, and playing pool though.
I miss him.
(
admiral crunch holds the newsreader's nose squarely, Thu 27 Sep 2012, 17:45,
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