b3ta.com qotw
You are not logged in. Login or Signup
Home » Question of the Week » Bizarre habits » Post 773567 | Search
This is a question Bizarre habits

Sandettie Light Vessel Automatic tells us: "Until I pointed it out, my other half use to hang out the washing making sure that both pegs were the same colour. Now she goes out of her way to make sure they never match." Tell us about bizarre rituals, habits and OCD-like behaviour.

(, Thu 1 Jul 2010, 12:33)
Pages: Latest, 18, 17, 16, 15, 14, ... 1

« Go Back | See The Full Thread

I'm not even using Ikea oil as I heard it was shite.
I have some Rustins worktop oil and it is pretty good.

Edit: I am that sad that I even researched what oils to use.
(, Thu 1 Jul 2010, 13:18, 3 replies)
Its not sad
I guess it cost a fortune and you don't want to fuck it up.

Keep on doing what you are doing.
(, Thu 1 Jul 2010, 13:28, closed)
I'd still consider Danish oil
Worktop oil is generally designed for beech and birch, innit? Mate of mine is a bespoke furniture maker, he reckoned Danish pisses on everything else as it works more like a wax. Or something. I dunno. Anyway, I used to get pressure ring marks and now I don't, and water and cast iron isn't a problem. Hot still is, but since it is for all worktops, who cares? just stick some metal bars on it somewhere. Ikea sell a pack of 4 metal bars for about £8 for this exact purpose. Cheaper than multiplying the price by 10 for granite. And then chipping it.
(, Thu 1 Jul 2010, 13:30, closed)
Hmm, I was told Danish oil isn't as suitable for surfaces used for food prep
because of drying agents or something.

This may translate to "please buy our more expensive niche oil".
(, Thu 1 Jul 2010, 13:33, closed)
yeah, the solvents are poisonous.
But then I wouldn't recommend drinking worktop oil, either, though ;)

The solvents evaporate. I wouldn't prepare salad on it until it's dry ... Well, I wouldn't prepare salad on it at all, as salad isn't food, it's what food eats, but that's by the by. Once it's dry it should be fine. Well, I'm not dead. Yet.
(, Thu 1 Jul 2010, 13:43, closed)
And niche oil?
Is that the sort of oil that gazes also into you?

disclaimer. I may have used a variant of this joke before.
(, Thu 1 Jul 2010, 13:44, closed)
I have heard that you should use standard food grade mineral oil available relatively cheaply
if you will prepare food on the counters.

In our house we have some really old (1930's) maple counters in the kitchen and pantry which over the years never had any special treatment and have developed a really nice "antique" look to them.

Of course you may not want to 50-60 years before you get a nice finish.

Eventually there is going to be a mark you will not be able to correct after which you won't give a shit. I would suggest you go ahead and mark it up as soon as possible so you no longer have to worry about it.
(, Thu 1 Jul 2010, 20:38, closed)
Correct
Plain pharmaceutical-grade mineral oil is just perfect for oiling worktops. I'm really not sure why all those other expensive ones are sold, other than to make money. There's no additives or preservatives, and it's safe for contact with food, as well as being relatively biologically inert (read: bacteria won't use it as a substrate). Thus, it's pretty happy in the kitchen.
(, Fri 2 Jul 2010, 5:49, closed)
But fulfillment awaits you.
The day will come when you'll look at the worktop, put down the Rustins, and say 'Fuckit; it doesn't matter'.
From then on the worktop will be a thing of beauty to you.
(, Thu 1 Jul 2010, 13:30, closed)

« Go Back | See The Full Thread

Pages: Latest, 18, 17, 16, 15, 14, ... 1